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AM-6155 / AM-6154 Conversion to 432 MHz
By:
Bertrand Zauhar, VE2ZAZ
Page last updated:
25/12/2023
This
page
presents my experience in converting an
AM-6155 (AM-6154) FAA amplifier to the UHF
Amateur Radio 70cm band. My intent is not to
repeat everything that is well documented on
other websites, but instead to supplement
whatever others have done with my own
findings. By following the links I provide and
by executing the additional steps I describe,
the user will have a very good and reliable
linear amplifier capable of producing 350-400W
of clean RF output on 432 MHz.
The
latest updates are shown in italic font.
Please
report any
broken links to me. Thanks!
The
FAA used the AM-6155 in the 1970's and
1980's with ground-to-air transmitters. They
were designed to cover 225-400 MHz at 50
watts AM continuous output. With only a few
hours of work, and a few extra parts, they
are capable of 400 watts RF output on 144
MHz, 222 MHz or 432 MHz in SSB/CW at Amateur
Radio duty cycles. This amplifier used
either an Eimac 8930 or an Amperex DX-393
tetrode tube. There are tons of these
amplifiers currently in circulation mainly
in North America.
Web links to the original ITT (the
manufacturer) AM-6155/6154 manual and
circuit schematics can be found below:
Basic
Chassis conversion
The main chassis (power supply) conversion
is described in numerous web locations.
Since there were several iterations of the
conversion developed over the years, reading
the various websites becomes confusing and
even contradictory in some cases. Luckily, I
found a web link by W3RJW that simplifies
everything. As a main reference, use his
chassis
conversion webpage.
But apply the following modifications to his
instructions provided in the link:
- In step II-A-2, use 2 x 20
ohm 2W resistors instead ox 2 x 10 ohm.
This provides a x10 meter reading factor
on the plate current instead of x20. In
other words, a reading of 34 would
indicate a plate current of 340 mA, much
easier to read than a reading of 17.
- Do not perform steps IV-C
and IV-D. Instead, use the re-designed
grid bias circuit described below. With
the new grid bias circuit, these steps
should not be performed.
Improved
Grid bias regulation
The first tests I performed with
my AM-6155 on 432 MHz revealed a major
non-linear output response. The output RF
power was not tracking the input RF power.
The unit picked up gain as the input level
increased. I noticed a major sag of the grid
bias voltage when keying down at full power.
This voltage would go from -78V to -50V in a
matter of a couple of seconds. This is due
to inadequate grid bias regulation.
Apparently, this is worse at 432 MHz due to
decreased tube efficiency. If you intend
to operate this amplifier in a linear mode
(AM, SSB), you MUST perform a
grid bias modification. I still definitely
recommend that you perform the mod in all
cases and for all amateur bands.
A glimpse at the original
circuit schematics revealed a resistive
divider and a potentiometer as the way to
set the bias. Looking around on the web, I
found K4HV's bias
circuit
proposal. That
circuit improves the regulation somewhat,
but requires numerous resistor values and
a 2W pot which is rather expensive to
acquire. So I decided to design my own.
With my improved grid bias supply, the
voltage is now rock-solid and RF response
is linear!
The mod consists of disconnecting
the existing grid bias circuit and
connecting a new regulator circuit
built on a small piece of
prototype PCB. The new grid bias
regulator is based on an LM337T
negative linear voltage regulator.
The circuit schematic is shown on
the right. This circuit allows to
adjust the grid bias voltage to
between -69V and -95V DC. This is
appropriate for setting the idle
plate current on both the Eimac 8930 and the
Amperex DX-393 tetrode tubes. For
the 4CX400A, a different bias
voltage range is required. See the
section below.
This grid bias circuit is quite
straightforward to put together.
All components can be found at
major component suppliers such as
Digikey, Arrow and Mouser. Use a
small heatsink on the LM337T
regulator. A simple, common 1/2W
trimming potentiometer (single
turn or multi-turn) is used.
I
have decided not to locate the pot
on the rear panel. I find the adjustment
pretty stable for a "set once and
forget" approach. Besides, long
leads on the potentiometer might
have promoted instability on the
voltage regulator. Of course, this
requires that you make the idle
plate current adjustment with the
amplifier top cover removed and
the interlock switch depressed or
bypassed.
Be careful! Lethal voltages
everywhere in there...
For mounting
the new PCB, I used metal tabs
covered with plastic tubing,
those commonly used in consumer
electronics to keep the wiring
in nice bundles. I attached the
tab eyelets to the PCB corners
using screws and nuts. I then
wrapped the tabs around one of
the A3 assembly horizontal
standoffs as shown on the
pictures on the right. Use your
imagination and mount the PCB on
the A3 assembly your way!
2023 UPDATE
I have decided to improve the
grid bias circuit for two
reasons.
First and foremost, I do not
like bringing out some high
voltage to the rear panel.
Secondly the 4CX400A version
of the circuit produces some
residual plate current (5 -10
mA) when in receive. This is
because the most negative grid
voltage produced is -67 V,
which is not quite sufficient
to completely cut off the tube
conduction.
The new circuit adds complete
isolation of the TX-RX
switching control by means of
a PhotoMOS solid state relay
(SSR), a six pin DIP
integrated circuit. Any of the
PhotoMOS devices will work
here as long as it can sustain
200 VDC on its output.
An AQV210, AQV214 or AQV216 is
suitable. Applying any voltage
between +6 V and +24V to the
Tx Keying signal will switch
the amplifier grid bias into
Tx mode.
On the updated circuit, the
voltage regulator circuit is
always powered up, which
improves stability and
reliability. When in receive
mode, the regulator output is
disconnected from the the grid
bias line. However a full -100
V of bias is applied through
R3, a weak pull down resistor.
In transmit mode, the PhotoMOS
SSR connects the regulator to
the grid bias line.
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Click on
the images to enlarge them.
2023
version circuit
2008 version circuit
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Once the PCB is assembled,
follow these wiring steps to install
the new grid bias circuit:
1- On the existing
A3 assembly printed circuit board, cut one
of the two leads of the following resistors
and lift up their end so that the cut off
lead no longer makes contact:
- R14, 1.5K, 2W
- R16, 22K, 2W
2-
Optionally, on the
existing A3 assembly printed circuit board,
replace VR1, the 100V zener diode, with a
new 100V 5W
one such as a 1N5378B. Since this is an
old amplifier and we are revising it, I
figured it would not hurt to replace that
one. Up to you.
3-
Solder the new grid bias circuit input wire to the TP4 post on
the A3 assembly printed circuit board.
4-
Solder the new grid bias circuit output wire to the E10 post on
the A3 assembly printed circuit board. Do
not disconnect the existing orange wire form
the E10 post.
5-
Run the T/R Keying wire to the back panel as
suggested in Step IV-D of W3RJW's chassis
conversion webpage.
Applying any voltage between
+6 V and +24V to the Tx Keying
signal will switch the amplifier
grid bias into Tx mode,
which allows the idle plate current to flow.
The grid bias adjustment is made with the
amplifier powered up and keyed in Tx mode
(no RF at the input). Adjust the trimming
potentiometer for an idle plate current of
between 60 and 90 mA. It should normally
represent ~ 20% of the maximum plate
current. I set mine to 80mA.
That's it. Solid output and good linearity.
Chassis
Re-Wiring to 240V AC
I suggest re-assigning the amplifier
so that it runs on an AC mains input to
240V. Considering that we run the amplifier
beyond its specified limits, this will give
some relief to the transformer primary
winding. The switch to 240V is done by
re-positioning jumpers on the two TB1
terminal blocks. There is one terminal block
on top of the A3 Assembly (hidden under a
removable "Caution High Voltage" plate) and
one block next to the power transformer
under the long high voltage hinged cover.
Jumper assignment for 240V is the same for
both blocks:
- Jumper linking positions
5-6
- Jumper linking positions 7-8
For
the RF plugin conversion, make sure you use
the circuit schematic that corresponds to the
right type of plugin you own. There exists a
VHF (AM-6154) plugin and a UHF (AM-6155)
plugin out there. Select the proper schematic
page, otherwise it will be confusing when
doing the grid compartment component removal
process.
RF Input
Compartment Conversion
For Input
(Grid) circuit conversion, I basically
followed W3RJW's
modification
page,
steps 1 to 10, with the following
adaptations:
- In step 6, I
failed in trying to remove the
input pedestal inductor shaft
from the input cavity. The set
screws were frozen hard.
Instead, I unscrewed the
pedestal from inside the grid
compartment. I then cut off the
threaded shaft as far as I could
using a Dremmel router tool with
a cutting disk. I then covered
the input cavity entry inside
the grid side compartment with a
piece of adhesive aluminum tape,
the type used to seal
ventilation ducting.
- In step 7, I
used a
Dremmel tool to cut off half of
the Input tuning capacitor. This
gave a neat result with no bent
or damaged plates. Use a bench
vise to keep the capacitor
firmly in place while cutting.
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Click on the figure to
enlarge it
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- I used 240pF silver-mica
capacitors instead of the suggested 200pf
values. This is what I had on hand and it
worked fine.
- I adjusted the position of
RF input injection on the brass grid line
to get a good input VSWR. The sweet spot
where to connect the input capacitor ended
up much closer to the end of the grid line
than the 5/8" suggested. I now get a VSWR
of less than 1.5:1.
RF Output
Compartment Conversion
- As mentioned by
K4HV in
his Loading
Capacitor Modifications section, do not forget
to take the black plastic
washer out from the plate
coupling gearbox.
This allows
to increase the travel of the
plate disk away from the plate
ring. Otherwise plate coupling
will be excessive and you will
not get the full output power.
See the figure to the right.
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Click on the figure to
enlarge it
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Output
Modules Removal
Remember
to disconnect and remove the low pass filter
module and the directional coupler module from
the output coaxial line. Replace them with
N-Female/N-Female adaptors.
4CX400A
TETRODE SUBSTITUTION (OPTIONAL)
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I have
also implemented and tested an improved grid
bias circuit to support the Svetlana 4CX400A
(GS-36B) tube requirements. Since the original
Eimac and Amperex tubes are becoming scarce,
this tube is a good substitute. I purchased a
pair of New Old Stock (NOS) GS-36B (4CX400A)
on eBay for around $100 per tube, delivered. My initial
thoughts were that I would get additional
output power over the Eimac 8930 just by
comparing the specs.
Before we go any further, let me warn you that
you MUST CONDITION any new
transmitter tube before applying high
plate voltage to it, otherwise the tube will
arc internally and this will damage the tube
and your amplifier. I learned this the hard
way! The conditioning procedure consists of
running the tube with the amplifier powered on (filament on,
fan running, no
plate voltage, no RF at the input) for a few
days (I suggest 4 days). This allows the
getter to capture any remaining gas molecules
inside the tube. Feel free to search the web
for more information on power tube
conditioning and the getter electrode.
Anode
Ring Modification
The anode heat dissipator on
the 4CX400A is slightly smaller than
on the original tubes. To accomodate
this smaller diameter, you must bend the
amplifier anode ring fingerstock towards the
center by about 0.5mm, one finger at a
time. In order to accomplish
this right, I suggest you take
the anode ring out of the
cavity. Only two screws need to
be removed to do this.
Improved
Grid
bias
regulation
For the 4CX400A,
the grid bias voltage is higher
(less negative) than for the
original tubes. The circuit shown to
the right does the trick for the
'400A tube. Follow the procedure described above
to
modify the AM-6155 chassis to the
improved grid bias circuit, but
instead, build the improved grid bias
circuit shown
to the right.
2023
UPDATE
As mentioned above, I have
decided to improve the grid
bias circuit, and this
benefits the 4CX400A
even more. With this improved
circuit, -100 V DC gets
applied to the grid when in
receive mode. This completely
cut off the tube
conduction. With
the previously proposed
circuit, some residual plate
current (5 -10 mA) will flow
when in receive. Although not
serious, this is not ideal.
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Click on
any image to enlarge it.
2023 version circuit
2008 version
circuit
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Chimney
and Cover Re-Assembly
One thing I noticed while re-installing the
chimney and cavity cover is that the chimney
protrudes outside of the cavity by a
millimeter or so. Once installed, the
4CX400A tube stands probably slightly taller
than the original tube. This causes the
cover to not quite sit on the cavity flange.
When tightening up the four cover screws, go
gradually on the tightening, working
diagonally and trying to maintain equal
tension on the four screws. Do not
overtighten, as this force gets transferred
to the tube itself. Once complete, there
will still be a small gap between the cavity
and its cover, but certainly not enough to
disturb cooling. If RF leakage is a concern
to you, you may want to use an RF gasket to
fill the crack, or simply use aluninum tape
all around to cover the gap. I did not care
since the RF plug-in sits inside the
chassis.
Results
Well, the bottom line is to not
expect a big improvement over the original
tubes with the 4CX400A. From what I could
see, you can get maybe 25-50W more, so
350-400W but the plate current is
significantly higher too. This shows an even
less efficient configuration compared to the
original tubes, which is not high to start
with. The power supply is the main
limitation in trying to push more output.
Cooling is also limited with the stock
blower.
While testing, I pushed the input power a
bit too far (more than 15W), and blew up the
three panel-mounted zener diodes ($10 each)
that set the screen bias and a few other
resistors blew up as well. Simply put, the
AM-6155 chassis is not designed for such
stress. I suggest you settle for 300-350W
output in CW.
(2023)
ALTERNATE APPROACH FOR TX-RX
KEYING (OPTIONAL)
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This web page and
many other modification
sources propose steering the
grid bias for doing the
TX-RX switching.
While consulting the old
documentation that came with
the purchased AM-6155s, I came
across an alternate approach
for doing the TX-RX Keying:
Steering the screen bias
instead. It was proposed by AF1T back in
1984. See pages 2 and 3 of
his notes (PDF document to
the right). His
original notes
are provided
here with his
permission. |
AF1T's
Tx-Rx
Switching Approach
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In a nutshell, Dale
suggested killing the screen bias
instead of steering the grid bias.
That voltage is +390 VDC. Being
positive, it is inherently more
stable to work on, as a failure of
that screen voltage will most
likely mean the voltage going to
zero, essentially eliminating any
possibility of DC plate current.
In retrospect I think this would
have been a better approach. Now
it involves a relay which can
withstand 400 VDC, which is not
cheap or common. However some
solid state relays can do that.
Here is one available at Digikey
for less than $7 US: The CPC1983Y.
That solid state relay and a high
value pull-down resistor on the
output, like described on page 3
of AF1T's document, would do the
trick. A +12 to +14V signal
applied to the SSR's input through
a limiting resistor would do the
witching, while providing total
isolation, a plus compared to the previous
grid bias solution.
This approach does not
eliminate the need for the
improved grid bias circuit
described above, but that grid
bias circuit would be always on,
permanently tied to the grid bias
line, and no TX-Rx keying would be
needed on the grid bias circuit.
I would definitely like to
hear back from those who try this
approach!
OPERATION AND
PERFORMANCE
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With
the above conversions performed, I get the
following performance on 432MHz:
Original
Eimac or Amperex Tube
CW/SSB: 15W input yields
325W output @ 300mA of DC plate current. I can
push to 375W output for short
bursts.
JT-65: 250W output @
250mA of DC plate current is the maximum I can
run in 50-second continuous transmissions
without the overheat protection tripping.
Svetlana
4CX400A (GS-36B) Tube
CW/SSB:
15W input yields 350W output @ 350mA
of DC plate current. I can push
to 400W output for short bursts.
JT-65: Like with the original tubes,
reduced output power by at least 100W in order
no to trip the overheat protection.
AC Mains
Current
In the 3A to 4A range @ 240VAC.
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