A Standalone Icom Remote Antenna Tuner Controller
Author: Bertrand Zauhar, VE2ZAZ - VA2IW
Page last updated: 2026/07/11
The latest changes are shown in red font.

 

INTRODUCTION

Have you ever wished you could use an Icom remote automatic antenna tuner, such as the AH-4 or the AT-130 without an Icom transceiver? This page documents a standalone Icom remote antenna tuner controller box, which allows to use any brand of radio with an Icom tuner.

I find the Icom remote antenna tuners to be good units. I have used the AH-4 and the AT-130 with the IC-7300 radio and have been satisfied with their performance. However the uniqueness of their control interface forces one to pair the tuner only with an Icom transceiver equipped with the 4-wire Molex connector tuner interface.

One day, I wanted to use the half-sloper antenna to which the AT-130 is connected with a non-Icom QRP radio, thinking that, at the very least, the tuner would be in pass-through mode when un-powered. No way, the antenna appeared to be disconnected from the tuner! This is only one of the hurdles to face when trying to use an Icom remote tuner with a different brand of transceiver. Here are the workaround steps required to accomplish this (By the way, if you do not own an Icom transceiver, you are out of luck anyway!):

  1. Connect both the antenna/tuner coaxial cable and the tuner control cable to the Icom transceiver.
  2. Set the Icom transceiver to the desired frequency and trigger an antenna tune-up the usual way.
  3. Once tuning is achieved, transfer the coaxial cable to the non-Icom radio and proceed with operation.
  4. While operating the non-Icom radio, keep the Icom transceiver turned on so that the tuner stays powered up and in tune (or in pass-through, depending on what was set on the Icom radio).
  5. If a band change or re-tuning is required, transfer the coaxial cable back to the Icom transceiver, and perform steps 1-3 above again...
There had to be a better way to use that tuner-antenna pair. While searching the Internet for clues on the Icom remote tuner interface protocol, I found this excellent document by Chris-K9EK, which describes the AH-4 tuner design and operation in detail. With this, I had everything I needed to try controlling the AT-130 from my electronics bench, not from my IC-7300.

So I put together a controller using a RP2040-based development mini-PCB and a few solid state relays (SSR), coded some Micropython, and it worked!

Note that I have only tested my controller with an AT-130 remote tuner. However, since I have implemented the interface protocol described
for the AH-4 in Chris-K9EK's document, and based on interface protocol similarities, this controller should operate correctly with the AH-3, AH-4, AT-120, AT-130, AT-140, AT-141 and AH-730 tuners. Due to differences in the interface scheme, this controller is not usable with the AT-705.
I have produced a YouTube video that describes the project and shows the unit in operation. The link is provided to the right.



DESIGN OBJECTIVES

The proposed Icom remote tuner controller must accomplish the following tasks:
  • Supply power to the antenna tuner,
  • Send request to initiate a tuneup action,
  • Key the non-Icom transmitter when requested by the tuner,
  • Send request to go into tuner pass-through mode,
  • Display success/failure of antenna tune-up action,
  • Display in-line/pass-through tuner status,
  • Display an error when the tuner is not present,
  • Allow controller bypassing, restoring "regular" tuner control with an Icom radio.
Electronically speaking, and in a simplified way, the proposed controller must accomplish the following signal handshake with the tuner. There are two control signals interfacing with the tuner, namely "START" and "KEY". A low-level, START pulse is sent to the tuner to initiate a tuneup process. The tuner then replies with a low-level KEY signal, which is a request to go into transmit and send RF. The tuner then controls the KEY signal release to indicate how successful the tuner was in tuning the antenna. This process is very well described with timing figures in Chris-K9EK's document. In addition to the START and KEY lines, a Vcc (+13.6 VDC, 2 Amp max.) supply line and a ground make the 4-wire tuner interface.

To supplement the basic tuner interfacing above, the controller provides the following features:
  • A ground-active PTT output line to control the sending of RF power from the non-Icom radio at the proper moment during the tuning process. This line could typically be wired up to the CW key,
  • A tuner presence detection by sensing the current sent onto the tuner Vcc DC supply line,
  • A single push-button to control the tuner,
  • LEDs to provide tuner and controller status,
  • A toggle switch to select either this controller or an Icom radio as the control host.

CIRCUIT DESIGN

The proposed controller circuit has the following characteristics:
  • It is based on the RP2040-Zero, a physically reduced version of the Raspberry Pi Pico development board. Its powerful dual-core CPU, low current consumption and ability to run Micropython or C language make it a good choice for most micro-controller projects.
  • For interfacing with the Tuner's control lines and the PTT line, it uses Panasonic AQV212 Solid State Relays (SSR). They can offer galvanic isolation, can switch up to 60 Volts AC/DC at up to 550 mA and are insensitive to polarity. Moreover, when purchased from AliExpress, they cost less than $1 US each.
  • The controller detects tuner presence by sensing the current sent onto the Vcc tuner supply line, using a mini-board hosting an INA226 I2C current/voltage sensor.
  • A bi-color status LED informs the user of the tuner status and the tuning process. Three colors are produced: green, red and amber (a blend of green and red).
  • A PTT LED indicates when a PTT signal is sent to the transceiver.
  • A push-button provides control of the tuner actions.
  • A front faceplate CONTROLLER/RADIO four-pole toggle switch allows to either take control of the tuner, or reconnect it directly to an Icom radio, restoring "regular" operation and disable the controller.
  • A 10-pin "Phoenix" type connector with detachable screw-in wire block provides easy hookup to the tuner, the Icom radio and +13.8V power.
  • The PCB dimensions allow it to neatly slide into a standard 88(W) x 38(H) x 100(D) mm extruded aluminum enclosure, eliminating any mounting hardware.

Once you know the above, the circuit diagram is relatively straightforward to understand. Here it is (click on it to zoom in):


The circuit is powered using a +13.6V external supply. A 78L05 voltage regulator feeds +5V to the RP2040-Zero micro-controller board through a Schottky diode, preventing any back-feed from the USB port's +5V line. That USB port is located on the micro-controller board, so is not shown on the schematic. The rest of the circuit uses the micro-controller board's +3.3V supply coming from its builtin voltage regulator.

S1, the four-pole dual-throw (4PDT) toggle switch provides full transfer, including the Vcc supply line, between the controller and an existing Icom transceiver. It also turns off the controller when the latter selection is made.

Instead of having to design in the INA226 current/voltage sensor (a fine-pitch SMD chip) on to the controller PCB, it was much simpler to integrate a small Chinese-made INA226 board, which also contains the proper measurement shunt resistor. The shunt resistor in connected in series on the "High-Side" of the +13.6V tuner supply line, which allows to measure the tuner current consumption, and thus detect its presence. The current is read over a two-wire I2C bus fed by the micro-controller.

The selected INA226 board

The author has had previous
success with the Panasonic AQV series of Solid State Relays; he used them often when interfacing with the outside world. They are cheap, simple, reliable, and their outputs do not care about signal polarity or common-mode voltage. They can also provide galvanic isolation between the input and output sides. Their implementation is simple compared to using power transistors, which require accompanying bias and pull-up resistors. The selected AQV212 SSR is a good compromise, as it can switch up to 60 Volts AC or DC, at up to 550 mA, which is suitable for many ham applications. Other AQV models with different specifications are available.

The AQV212 in DIP-6 package

D1, a bi-color (green/red) LED is lit by opposing High and Low logic levels on the GP14 and GP15 outputs, depending on which color is required. The amber color is produced by quickly toggling the two control outputs between red and green. To produce a decent amber color, the duration ratio between red and green may not be 50%; With the cheap no-name LED used by the author, it is necessary to dwell much longer on the red color. This is done by the firmware (software). Depending on which model of LED used, it may be necessary to change the dwell time ratio in the firmware to get suitable amber color.

The two LEDs have a 220-Ohms series resistor to limit the DC current. A 5mA current limit is recommended. If LED brightness is judged inappropriate, the R1 and R2 resistor values can be changed, as long as a maximum current of 5mA is met. Note that resistor replacement may affect the amber color tone.

BOARD DESIGN

The project was designed in the KiCad electronics design environment. It implements an all through-hole design (no surface-mounted devices used).

The PCB outline (
75.6 mm x 83.5 mm) was set so that the PCB fits inside the proposed aluminum enclosure (see below), without the need for mounting standoffs and screws. The PCB simply slides into the enclosure side rails. Four mounting holes have also be included for other integration approaches.

The PCB bottom side has the ground plane, which ensures a low ground impedance and minimum signal radiation.

The 10-pin "Phoenix" type connector is positioned on the PCB edge so that it will protrude on the back of the chosen enclosure through its rear faceplate.

All components are to be placed on the PCB top side. Soldering is done on the PCB bottom side.

Position S1 is meant to directly receive a series of wires that go the the 4-pole toggle switch. No connector is necessary. See the assembly section for important instructions.

LIST OF COMPONENTS

Here is a list of the suggested components to assemble this project.


On-Board Components
Qty
Reference
Value
Footprint
1 A1 INA226 Mini-Board Custom, SIP pin pitch
1 C1 100uF 25V Radial Diam=5.0mm Pitch=2.00mm
4 C2,C3,C4,C5 100nF 50V
Radial Pitch=5.00mm
1 C6 1000pF 50V
Radial Pitch=5.00mm
1 D2 1N5711 Schottky diode
DO-35
1 F1 1 Ampere Picofuse
Axial, Pitch=10.1mm
1 J1 10 Position Phoenix Connecting Block, detachable screw block, 0.200" pin pitch
Pitch=P5.08mm
2 R1,R2
220 Ohms 1/4W. Adjust resistor value for a 5 mA current into the LED
Axial, Pitch=10.1mm
2 R3,R4 1 K-Ohm 1/4W Axial, Pitch=10.1mm
1 R5 10 K-Ohms 1/4W
Axial, Pitch=10.1mm
1 U1 LM78L05 5V 100mA Voltage regulator
TO-92
1 U2 RP2040-Zero Board.
Custom, SIP pin pitch
2
 -
9-pin male-male "machined" pin header, cut from a 40-pin strip. Soldered to the RP2040-Zero micro-controller board. See details in the Assembly section.
SIP pin pitch
2
 -
9-pin female-male "machined" socket header, cut from a 40-pin strip. Soldered to the project PCB. See details in the Assembly section.
SIP pin pitch
3 U3,U4,U5 AQV212 Solid State Relay
DIP-6
3
 -
"Machined"-type IC socket
DIP-6
Off-Board Components
Qty
Reference
Value
1
D1
LED-Bidirectional Red/Green, 2 leads, 5mm diam.
1
D3
LED, Red, 5mm diam. The same bidirectional Red/Green LED as for D1 can be used. Only the red color will show.
1
S1
Toggle Switch 4PDT (Four-Pole-Double-Throw), MTS-402 or equiv.
1
SW1
Push-Button SPST Momentary
2
 -
LED Socket (Holder), for 5mm LED
1
 -
Enclosure. extruded aluminium, 88(W) x 38(H) x 100(D) mm (see text below)
1
 -
Front enclosure PCB faceplate (see text below)
1
 -
Rear enclosure PCB faceplate (see text below)
8
 -
M3-8mm narrow hexagonal head screw (see text below)


PCB ORDERING

The PCB has the following characteristics:
  • A double-sided copper design, all components are mounted on the top side,
  • 75.6 mm x 83.5 mm dimensions, qualifies for "special price" PCB manufacturing,
  • Recommended material: Regular FR-4, 1.6 mm (0.062") thickness,
  • Soldermask provided for both sides,
  • Silkscreen layer provided for top side, no silkscreen on bottom side,
  • Uses through-hole components, easy to put together.
Those who would like to build this system should have the PCB made by a reputable PCB manufacturer (such as JLCPCB or PCBWay). To complete the order, the Gerber and drill files must be transferred to the manufacturer. The ZIP file containing the manufacturing files (Gerber and NC Drill files) is provided to the right.


ASSEMBLY AND INTEGRATION

The PCB assembly process is relatively easy, with only through-hole components to install and solder. No surface-mounted devices are used.

The author mounted the AQV212 SSRs on "machined" DIP sockets to facilitate replacement in the unlikely case a device is blown up. Machined style sockets are more reliable than cheaper bent strip style sockets.

The same can be said about the RP2040-Zero micro-controller board. The author cut two 9-pin pieces from a single in-line male-male "machined" 40-pin strip and soldered them to the micro-controller board to act as a DIP pins. Corresponding machined female-male header socket strips are used on the PCB to host the micro-controller board. This allows for a quick RP2040-Zero removal / replacement if necessary. Note that the perpendicular row of contacts (opposite the USB connector) is not used on micro-controller board, and no pins must be installed on that row.
The type of "Machined" SIP header
referred to by the author


The 78L05 voltage regulator does not require any heat sinking under normal conditions.

The push-button and the toggle switch should be mounted to the front faceplate using the provided hardware.

The two LEDs should be mounted to the front faceplate using 5mm LED black plastic sockets (holders).


Wiring up the four-pole toggle switch needs attention. A series of 11 wires must be made to link the S1 contacts on the PCB to the actual toggle switch contacts. All wires should be soldered at both ends. The S1 PCB layout is arranged in one row of contacts, numbered from 1 to 12, as shown to the right. The corresponding toggle switch contact numbering is also shown to the right. The wiring should follow that numbering pattern, PCB-1 to Switch-1, PCB-2 to Switch-2, and so on. Contacts 4, 5 and 6 should be run using a bigger gauge wire. AWG-20 stranded wire is suggested, as the DC current could reach 2 Amps. Other contacts can use a smaller gauge, such as AWG-24 stranded. Contact 10 is not used, so there is no need to wire it up. Proposed individual wire length is 9 cm, which provides just enough slack to easily reach the front faceplate, while still easily fit inside the enclosure.
S1 - Correspondence of PCB numbering
vs. toggle switch numbering


The proposed 88(W) x 38(H) x 100(D) mm extruded aluminum enclosure is commonly available on AliExpress (as of 2026). Searching for "38 x 88 x 100mm Aluminum Case" should provide a list of enclosures that match the one used by the author. Expect to pay less than $10 US for one unit.

The PCB outline was chosen to fit inside the proposed aluminum enclosure, without the need for mounting standoffs and screws. The PCB simply slides into the enclosure side rails. Four mounting holes have also be included for other integration approaches. Some glue may be needed to maintain the rear PCB edge against the rear faceplate. A drop of glue at the interfaces of the PCB and both rails should suffice.

The selected extruded enclosure

In addition to the circuit PCB, the author designed faceplate PCBs to replace the blank faceplates provided with the enclosure. When ordered with black solder resist and white silkscreen, they color-match the black aluminum enclosure and give a more professional look to the project. The bottom side of the faceplate PCBs has a continuous copper plane, which helps reduce signal radiation. As the faceplates have dimensions smaller than 100 x 100 mm, they also qualify for "special price" PCB manufacturing. Note that the two faceplates must be ordered as separate PCBs, hence the separate gerber zip files provided.

Note that depending on the connectors, LEDs and switches used, the faceplate hole sizes may have to be manually adjusted.

Because the provided M3 size screws have a chamfered (conical) head, they do not work well with the
PCB faceplates unless a chamfer is created in the holes. The author has instead elected to use black M3-8mm narrow hexagonal head screws, which give a neat look.


The replacement M3 narrow hexagonal head screws






The completed assembly. Please note that this picture shows a previous version of the project,
hence some differences with the latest design, one of which being the number of wires linking the PCB to the toggle switch.

FIRMWARE PROGRAMMING

The firmware is written in Micropython, and is designed to run on the RP2040-Zero micro-controller board. The Micropython interpreter must first be installed on the micro-controller board. Then the firmware script can be transferred using a computer editor program such as Thonny. This procedure is well explained here .

Important: It was brought to my attention that some of the INA226 boards purchased from Asia respond to I2C address 0x44 instead of address 0x40. It you are experiencing IO errors and then code crash when executing the python code, you should try address 0x44. To do so, modify line 67 of the python code so that it looks like this:

ISense = ina226.INA226(ISense_I2C, 0x44)  #....

Firmware Version History

Version 1 (February 2026): Initial firmware release.


Legal Note
This software design is made available under the following license: CC BY-SA 4.0 (
Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International). See this link for more detail. In summary:
 
You are free to:
  • Use, share and adapt the design, even commercially,
You must:
  • Give appropriate credit to the author.
  • Distribute your contributions under the same license.



INSTALLATION AND OPERATION

INSTALLATION

The figure above shows the required control wiring between the various components and the control box. The RF cabling is not shown.

An easy way to install the controller into the existing Icom tuner-transceiver chain is to cut the Icom-provided cable about 1 meter from the 4-pin Molex connector
(with the Icom transceiver powered off!), and connect the bare wires to the control box Phoenix connector, as shown on the figure above. The colors shown correspond to those of the Icom cable. The wire colors are:

Wire Color
Signal
Red
+13.6V DC
Black
Ground
White
START
Green
KEY

A DC supply of between +13V to +14V at a maximum of 2 Amps should be applied to the circuit PCB on Ext.VCC position on the Phoenix connector. This will guarantee a sufficient supply to the antenna tuner.

The PTT line is grounded when the antenna tuner requires an RF carrier to be sent up to the tuner. The user must wire up the PTT line to the radio accordingly. The Morse key input contacts are one way of wiring up the PTT line to the radio. However the Morse key input must be set up for straight key operation. The controller tolerates a maximum of +50 Volts and a minimum of -50 Volts on the PTT line. If a PTT connection to the transceiver is not possible, the author has found that manually sending an RF carrier of 10 Watts maximum to the tuner while it is in tuneup does work.


OPERATION

When the CONTROLLER/RADIO toggle switch is in the CONTROLLER position, this controller operates the antenna tuner. When the CONTROLLER/RADIO toggle switch is in the RADIO/OFF position, this controller is powered down, and the antenna tuner is operated by the external Icom transceiver connected up to the controller via the rear Phoenix block.

The status LED shows various operational states using three colors and some blinking. The push-button controls whether to tune the antenna and engage the tuner inline, or to put the tuner offline (in pass-through).

At power up, the tuner is considered to be offline (in pass-through). The status LED thus shows a solid-amber color. However, if no tuner Vcc current is sensed (tuner not drawing a minimum supply current), the tuner is considered missing and a slow-blinking-red color will show instead. Under such state, the push-button is disabled. As soon as a a valid tuner Vcc current is detected, the tuner is considered present and in
offline (in pass-through) state, and the push-button action is restored.

Pressing the push-button for more than one second (a long press) initiates a tuneup procedure. While in progress, the status LED shows a fast-flashing amber color,
the PTT LED lights up and the PTT line is asserted to electrical ground. At this point, the tuner expects to receive an RF carrier with power in the range of 5 to 10 Watts. If properly wired up, the PTT line will put the radio transceiver in transmit. When tuneup is completed, a solid-green color is shown when the antenna tuneup was successful (a match was found) and the tuner is put inline. If antenna tuneup was not successful (no match found), the LED first shows blinking amber, followed by solid amber, and the tuner is put offline (in pass-through).

Pressing the
push-button for much less than one second (a quick press) forces the tuner off-line. In that state, the status LED shows a solid amber color.

If, for any reason, the tuner fails to initiate a tuneup procedure (no KEY signal received by the tuner), a blinking red color, followed by a solid red color will show on the status LED. This may indicate that the tuner is powered up (Vcc current is detected), but that one of the control lines is be disconnected. This could also indicate a problem with tuner operation.

 Here is a table that summarizes the LED indications.

Status LED
Color
Tuner/Controller Status
Solid Green
Antenna is tuned up and the tuner is inline
Solid Amber
Tuner is offline (in pass-through)
Blinking Amber, then Solid Amber Tuner failed to tune up the antenna, no match found, tuner is offline (in pass-through)
Fast-Blinking Amber Antenna tuneup in progress
Blinking Red, then Solid Red
Tuner not responding to the tuneup request
Solid Red
Tuner did not previously respond to the tuneup request
Continuous-Blinking Red
Tuner not powered up, defective or not present
Extinguished
Controller is un-powered, or Controller/Radio toggle switch is set to Radio/OFF

 Here is a table that summarizes the push-button action:

Push-Button Action
Tuner/Controller Action
Long push (> 1 second)
Antenna tuneup is initiated
Short push (< 1 second)
Tuner is put offline (in pass-through)

ERRATA AND IMPROVEMENTS

The author would appreciate reading back from the experimenters who build this project. This will allow to improve this page and the project by providing additional clarification if necessary. Thanks!